2nd – 15th OCTOBER. Seal Pups, Robbo’s, & Peterson Island.
Well, last weekend I had my first weekend off in over 3 months and I have to say – it really was a welcome break. I am over being stressed out – for the time being anyway. I am still looking forward to coming home, but I am happy enough now to stay for another 12 weeks at this stage.
At the end of the day I have been working 6 days a week since September 2005 with only a weekend off every few months. It is a bloody big ask for anyone. No wonder I am going a bit mental down here hey? ;o]
This break was awesome. John, Petie and I rode out on the quads at about 4pm Friday arvo. The weather wasn’t too good. The sky was gray and the definition was terrible, but we would have gone out in a blizzard we were so determined to get off station. I don’t enjoy riding with no definition; it is hard work and always a really rough ride. But we made it to Robbo’s hut and arced up the heater. Robbo’s is my favourite hut. It is roomy and comfortable and in a beautiful spot; though it is a very cold hut due to its size – you take the good with the bad.
The next morning the weather was better, but not great. Petie made his famous hut pancakes and we all tucked in ready for a big day of exploring. We set off hoping to find seal pups. All we managed to do was get bogged numerous times in the very deep snow that was all over the sea ice in between islands. So; cold, wet and disappointed we headed back to the hut to dry out. After an hour or so Petie and I headed out for a walk to warm ourselves up while John had a snooze.
It didn’t take us long of slogging through the soft, deep snow to get nice and warm. After a while of climbing up and down a few snow cliffs and having a wander through the moss beds we headed back to the hut via the sea ice and up one last snow covered cliff face. Then we had a snooze as well and woke just in time to sched in with Casey at 7pm.
I made dinner of Fray Bentos pies, smash and peas. YUM! Fabulous hut food!!! Then we played a game called “Mastermind” which was a bit of fun. I am hopeless at Trivial Pursuit, I have no head for remembering trivia but this is a thinking game and I was surprisingly good at it. All you needed to do was apply logic – something I can do easily enough. (Now, now, be nice!!!) I might even buy the game when I get home I enjoyed it that much.
Sunday bought a fabulous day with its arrival. We had sunshine, great definition and no wind. Marvelous! Off we set, in the direction of Peterson Island. We headed out to sea this time, instead of inland. Then we turned back inland after inspecting a few Islands for seals. We found several big, fat pregnant Mum’s to be looking like they were about to pop, but alas, no pups anywhere.
It was nice to be out on a good day. It is such an amazing feeling to be riding along the sea ice wandering in between Islands and slowing along the Ice cliffs to marvel at the beauty of them. It still spins me out to think I am riding over the middle of the ocean. I have to say I am not overly comfortable with the idea. I stay right away from some of the huge tide cracks, ever mindful that the ice can open up below my quad and I will tumble into the very cold Antarctic seas. At one point in my sea ice roaming, I stopped in front of a lovely Ice Cliff and remarked to Petie that it was beautiful but not really worthy of a piccie. We laughed at that. It is funny what you get used to. If you dropped a helicopter of people at that spot they would snap off about 100 photos in the first minute! Ha ha
The boys spotted some huge snow drift cliff faces to scream up and over on the quads and then some blue ice to play on. I scooted further a field and finally found what I had been looking for. Seals – and puppies!!! I was absolutely beside myself. THIS is what I had come out to see.
We stopped the quads a distance away and walked in to the seals. We were only 12 – 24 hours from seeing a pup being born. These guys were brand newly born. There was blood and afterbirth and a great big mess everywhere. Who on earth would want to have kids I ask you!! Ick! There were five Mum’s with babies and one Mum ready to give birth at any time. 3 of the pups still had their umbilical cord attached they were so newly born.
Slowly we walked in amongst the seals, they didn’t care at all that we were there. These animals have no real natural enemies down here, especially when they are out on the sea ice and are not afraid of humans at all. The little pups were amazing. They didn’t really know what to do with their flippers or feet. It was so funny to watch them squirming around and learning how to move. We spent hours there on that first day.
Watching these cute little pups with their Mum’s was the most amazing experience I have ever had. I fell in love with every single one of them. How could you not? They are amazingly beautiful. I just wanted to sneak in and cuddle one, but Mum definitely would NOT have allowed that. Ha ha. A normally docile creature, I wouldn’t want to see them if someone came too near their young. I think a nasty bite would ensue.
But I was very lucky. One mum let me within 2 metres of her and her baby and I lay on the ice next to them for ages while they watched me lazily, then they curled up together and went to sleep. It was the most beautiful sight I have ever seen.
After we had our fill of pups we headed over to Browning and refueled the quads with petrol left by some of the boys who had been there the day before. Both the boys were on reserve after all their playing; I was close but not quite there. It was nice to be able to drop into the Browning servo instead of carrying our own fuel on the quads. Then we headed to Peterson Island where there is a Melon (A small oval shaped sleeping hut).
The snow was very deep and very soft between Browning and Peterson Island and really hard going. We got all 3 quads bogged so many times that by the time we arrived at Peterson Island we were all absolutely shattered. We slept well that night, despite the temp in the hut dropping to about -10 degrees. You can’t afford to leave any heaters on overnight while you sleep in case of asphyxiation or gas poisoning. So it gets very very cold in the huts overnight when the temperature outside is at about -22 degrees. When you wake you are freezing. Thank goodness we have brilliant cold weather clothes and sleeping bags, so we are never actually in danger of freezing to death – though it does feel like you will – ha ha. ;o]
Monday was an absolute cracker of a day! The sun was out, the skies were brilliant blue and there was no wind – absolutely gorgeous. We had a bit of a walk around Peterson Island then headed home – via the seals at Williams Nunatak from the day before. This time we avoided most of the heavy snow by taking a different route and staying way out on the sea ice. We only became bogged once.
Again we stopped at the seals and pups and wasted another hour or so and I nearly filled my 1Gig photo card. How could you NOT take a million photos of these gorgeous little creatures? They must be the most beautiful things I have ever seen in my life.
Again I was lucky, the same Mum seemed happy for me to visit with her and her pup once more and spend some time with them. Then another Mum let the 3 of us sit on a ledge of ice next to her and her baby for ages. This little guy was really curious and kept wiggling closer and closer to us until he was only about 1 metre away. Mum kept moving closer as baby did and then she let it be known we were a little close for her liking. She didn’t really mind – I think she was stopping her little guy from coming closer more than being concerned about us, but we moved on anyway.
It was just beautiful to watch these animals in their natural habitat and see such young babies. I won’t ever forget it. I have another trip booked at Robbo’s in 4 weeks time, so it will be lovely to see how the pups have grown by then.
I am so fortunate; very few people will ever get to experience such a beautiful thing. I just hope Mankind realises what we have down here and stops to think before they start all this bullshit about drilling for oil and exploration for mining down here. This truly is the last great unspoilt wilderness on earth and we need to do all we can to protect it and leave it in its natural state.
On the way back to Casey we passed my beautiful Blue Berg in Sparkes Bay. The poor old fellow is feeling the effects of the winter coming to an end and is starting to deteriorate. Already the back part is a huge pile of ice rubble and the face of him is melting like a Popsicle in the sun. So I made the boys stop the quads and wait while I went over and gave him a big hug. Then the boys, overcome by my feeling for this beautiful blue giant also gave him a big hug. Big softies they are!
Then we headed home to Casey over the sea ice the whole way. We were able to ride the quads at about 50kph the ice was so good. The last few kilometers there were lots of snow mounds and ice build up and I managed to get some huge air off the snow and ice as I jumped them with the quad. It was great fun. I don’t tend to do much hooning on the sea ice, though I do cut sick every now and then, but I do love to get air over a jump. That is the dirt bike rider in me coming out I think. ;o]
Once home I was exhausted. I had a shower, which was very nice after 3 days out bush, put on a load of washing and went to bed exhausted. It had been a big few days, but a very good few days.
This really is the most amazing year of my life. I have had some pretty awesome adventures in my time, but this year certainly beats them all. Yes, there have been some tough and some trying times to be sure, but at the end of the day it is a year I will never regret and one I am very glad I took on.
Thanks to all of you who have sent me e-mails over the last few weeks. It makes home seem that much closer when I hear from my mates. It is good to have so many friends.
My Dad was rushed to hospital a week ago. He is pretty busted up, but seems to be doing OK. I think he has a bit of a slog ahead of him but he is a tough old bugger, so he should be fine. With that on my mind before I went away as well as some of the stuff going on in my life it was nice to hear from friends I haven’t heard from in a while.
Ok, till next week.
Life is short – play hard Kids!
Trace :o]
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